Distance
6 mile loop around downtown Reykjavík
Highlights
Much of the year, Iceland is cold.
And dark.
Yet, Icelanders are the third happiest populace in the world according to the 2023 World Happiness Report. Clearly, this cultural joy in the face of seemingly infinite cold darkness is thanks to their life-giving system of geothermal pools. Access to these fountains of youth (or at least, fountains of record-setting happiness) can be yours, too, for the low, low price of about $4— and a willingness to shower naked with strangers.
There are nearly 20 city pools in Reykjavík, but on this 6-mile loop we’re going to hit three of them:
- Sundhöllin — Reykjavík’s oldest, but most recently renovated, pool
- Laugardalslaug — the city’s largest swimming pool, and its most popular
- Vesturbæjarlaug — relaxed community-vibes, ideal if you’re trying to pretend to be a local
Starting Line
Most city pools are open from early in the morning until late at night. So, on short winter days they make an excellent transitional activity for early evenings as the sun has already set but the precious exploration day isn’t over yet.
Sundhöllin is right behind Hallgrimskirkja in downtown Reykjavík so it’s a great place to start after a day of sightseeing. The hot tubs on the roof are tiny, but each “hot pot” is set to a different temperature and the close proximity to fellow visitors makes it easy to eavesdrop on the neighborhood gossip.
Route
It’s a little bit farther, but take Laugavegur from Sundhöllin to the Laugardalslaug. At the intersection with Reykjavegur, make a left for a quick stop at Ásmundarsafn, one of the three locations of the Reykjavík Art Museum. Not a large outpost at all, but the architecture alone is worth the extra .4 miles.
Laugardalslaug is deceptively huge. Do at least one lap before settling in to your pool of choice for excellent, restorative people-watching. Bonus points for finding the heated salt water “sea tub.”
Finally, once you’re warm and toasty and ready to likely face some ice cold wind for approximately 2 miles, take the Sculpture & Shore Walk back to downtown. You’ll pass the Höfði Lighthouse, the infamous Sun Voyager sculpture, and the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre.
The last mile to Vesturbæjarlaug veers inland for a one-mile straight-stretch of amazing street art murals. Vesturbæjarlaug is the lowest-key of the three pools and a perfect place to wind down for the night. Lay back in the shallow lagoon, gaze at the stars (hoping for a glimpse of the Northern Lights), and soak your inevitably sore muscles. Great news— it doesn’t close until 10PM. Less great news— 10PM doesn’t seem to be past local children’s bedtime.
Finish Line
Finishing the loop back toward downtown, there are several incredible options for late-night eats and drinks— making it easy to make the most of 18 hours of darkness. Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur is famous for their hot dogs (think Bill Clinton and Anthony Bourdain), and local brewery Ægir’s taproom is open until at least 11PM every night. Both are on your 1.7 mile walk back to Sundhöllin. If you’re feeling particularly refreshed after an evening of hot-tub-hopping, swing around the central Tjörnin lake on your way to Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, “the best hot dog in town.”
Supplies
- A way to stay hydrated — You’re going to be sweating, literally for hours. Luckily, Icelandic tap water is delicious and water fountains are plentiful at the pools. Make sure to bring a water bottle or large insulated cup, like this one.
- Toiletries — It’s a requirement to shower. Naked. Communally. But, at least you can bring your own toiletries and at least feel and smell like yourself, to distract from the awkwardness.
- Towel (optional) — Most, if not all, city pools offer towel rentals. However, it’s convenient to bring your own for free as there are also instant dryers available in the locker rooms (How had I never even seen one of these contraptions before? They’re magical.). This towel is great because it’s wearable, providing a little more hands-free warmth walking between “hot pots.”